The brown PTFE tape on a heat sealer stops the film from sticking to the hot bar or element. When it wears out, seals get weak or uneven and plastic starts sticking to the jaw. Replacing it takes a few minutes. Always follow your sealer manufacturer’s manual first; the steps below are a general guide.
When to replace it
- The tape is scorched, torn or worn through over the heating element.
- Film sticks to the jaw or leaves residue on it.
- Seals have become weak, wrinkled or uneven and the settings have not changed.
What you need
- PTFE-coated glass cloth tape with adhesive, in the width of your jaw (often sold as heat sealer tape).
- Isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
- A sharp blade or scissors.
Step by step
- Unplug the sealer and let it cool completely. The element and bar stay hot for a while after use.
- Remove the old tape. Peel it off slowly. If the element sits under a separate cover tape, note how it was routed before you remove anything.
- Clean the surface. Wipe off old adhesive and debris with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. Leftover adhesive causes bumps and hot spots.
- Check the element. If the heating wire or ribbon is damaged or uneven, replace it now; new tape will not fix a bad element.
- Cut the new tape a little longer than the jaw. Leave enough to wrap around the ends if your sealer is designed that way.
- Apply it from one end. Lay the tape down straight and smooth it as you go, pushing out air. Avoid wrinkles and bubbles, which show up as marks in the seal.
- Trim and test. Trim the ends, run a few test seals at your usual setting, and adjust only if needed.
Film or glass cloth?
Most heat sealers use PTFE-coated glass cloth because it lasts longer on a hot, abrasive surface. Smooth PTFE film is used where low friction matters more than wear. See our PTFE tape guide, or compare with 3M 5451 if that is what you buy today.
Running a production sealer every day? We can slit tape to your exact jaw width so there is no trimming, and send a free sample to test first.